Revisiting Patterns A Bath Wrap

 
Some times it is good to come back and revisit a pattern.  This was one of my first knit patterns, done in garter stitch, very simple with I-Cord edging. I want to see if it needs to be revamped, optimized and maybe even better pictures.  Pictures that will be helpful for the people that are making the wrap. It came to my attention from a person who was making the wrap that they were confused. Hey it only takes one person to make you think that maybe you can explain things a bit better, or maybe a picture is worth a thousand words. Since this pattern was made in 2009, and I was very young at pattern making, it is worth revisiting.  I can tell that it needs new pictures with a better view of what you are going to be doing.

 

Yesterday was an inspiring day, we got the backyard cleaned and brought some new dirt, weeds out, and new plants as well. Hope you have a great Earth Day, thanks for stopping by!

Wrap of Khan WIP

WrapWIPKhan
Originally uploaded by Crafty Andy

This is my own pattern FOR FREE on Ravelry that you can download HERE. It is a Baby Bath wrap that may be used as a baby blanket. I am very excited as I am doing the double decreases now and on my way to make the other corner. This project is in 100 % acrylic. The variegated green with some purple is James C Brett Marble, DK and the purple and green is a Red Heart Soft Yarn worsted weight. The Red Heart is extra soft and it is more like a light worsted weight. Both yarns are fun to knit with and the way this throw is made , it will be very stretchy. Thanks for stopping by.

The Limerick Moss Cap Free Pattern ©

© Crafty Andy 2008 For personal Use Only, not for Resale If you like to use the pattern just give me credit, lol!. You may make as many as you like for charity and for gifts! This pattern is mainly for men, but may be used as a woman's cap. Avaliable as PDF Download at Ravelry!

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It is a moss stitch variation,

what a clever combination,

even in the band

Easy on your hand

No need for vacillation!

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Limerick Moss Cap! Crafty Andy 2008©

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Materials: 1 Skein of Malabrigo Kettle Dyed Pure Merino Wool, 216 yards or 200 meters.

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Needle Size : Size Size 8 US = 5 mm Straight Needles , 2 pairs of Size 8 Circulars 16 inch cable each or DPN as well.

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Darning Needle
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Gauge for me 12 rows = 3 inches & 30 Stitches = 5 inches

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Provisionally Cast on of 23 stitches or multiples of 2 stitches plus 1, on straight size 8 US needles.

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Main Pattern
Row 1 & 3 (RS) Knit
Row 2 P1, *K1, P1; rep from * to end
Row 4 K1, *P1, K1; rep from * to end

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Continue Rows 1 – 4 for about 20 to 21 inches, then remove provisional cast on. Using the Kitchener’s Stitch assemble the band without twisting it, you now have a circular band. You may choose to weave the ends or allow them to be inside the fold that will be created. Fold band in half (wrong sides Together) and pick up 117 stitches through both edges dividing the work equally on two or more needles. Whatever side you Pick the stitches out of is the Right side. Remember that you may have more or less stitches depending on your gauge or hat size.
Continue Pattern until Cap measures 5 to 6 inches from bottom. Before you decrease choose what you want the crown to look like? Is it 5, 6, 7, 8 partitions with decreases? You need to prepare your hat. I had 117 stitches so I increased 3 to a total of 120 then I decreased accordingly.

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Crown decrease for 10 partitions
Row 1 Knit 10, K2 Tog all around
Row 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12,14,16,18 and all even rows Knit all stitches
Row 3 Knit 9, K2 Tog all around Row 5 Knit 8, K2 Tog all around
Row 7 Knit 7, K2 Tog all around Row 9 Knit 6, K2 Tog all around
Row 11 Knit 5, K2 Tog all around Row 13 Knit 4, K2 Tog all around
Row 15 Knit 3, K2 Tog all around Row 16 Knit 2, K2 Tog all around
Row 17 Knit 1, K2 Tog all around

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After Row 18 is done make sure you have even numbers of stitches on each needle and join with Kitchener’s Stitch, weave in the ends. You are done knitting! You can now block your hat! Protected under United Federation of Planets © and the Gods of Kobol.

Please let me know of any errors!

Garter Stitch Baby Bath Wrap Free Pattern ©

Available as a PDF on Ravelry.com, you will need Acrobat Reader 9 which is Free. The Copyright of this pattern is that you give me Credit for my work . The pattern may not be reproduced for commercial use without my permission. If you want to use it in a KAL please ask for permission.
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The following video link will help you with the I-Cord Bind off and the Applied I-cord edging. Just follow this VIDEO LINK .
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Crafty Andy 2008©
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YO = Yarn Over
PSSO = Pass slip stitch over the previous
K2 tog = Knit two stitches together
K3 tog = Knit three stitches together
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A double Decrease is a combination of k2 tog , followed by a PSSO
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Materials: about 370 yards Lion Brand Cotton (1 lb Cone is perfect)
Needles : 10.5 US or 6.5 mm
9.5 US or 5.5 mm (for (I-Cord if desired)
Blunt Needle: Weave the ends just Two!
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Little Stitch markers/holders 20 of them.
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This pattern is easy and fast, you do not finish off the work or bind off until the end, well almost, because when you bind off in I-Cord Form the head cover or feet cover flap, you will actually be working on the pattern.
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First Part of 4
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Cast On five stitches
Row 1 knit 2 stitches YO, knit to the end.
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Row 2 Repeat Row 1 until you have 100 stitches, or the stitches that you desire it to be wide this may depend on your gauge.
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Once you have reached the amount of stitches that you want you will go to the second part of the pattern.
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Second Part of 4
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Let's say you are at 100 stitches now you will start to :
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Row 1 Knit 2 stitches, YO, then Slip a Stitch, K2 tog, PSSO, (This is your double Decrease) knit until end.
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Row 2 Repeat Row 1 and keep on double decreasing until you have 5 or 7 stitches left.
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When you have 5 or 7 stitches mark that area as you will be folding over the wrap on this area to create a pouch.
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Third Part of 4
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Row 1 knit 2 stitches YO, knit to the end.
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Row 2 Repeat Row 1 until you have 50 stitches, or the stitches that you desire it to be wide this may depend on your gauge. This will be the Flap that will become the head or feet cover of this bath wrap.
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Once you are done with this part you may fold it and mark the ends of it on the wrap
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Fourth Part of 4
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Once you have let say the stitches (50 in this instance) that you determined to make the flap of, You will slip one stitch to one needle, then you will proceed to cast on (with a backward loop or the method that you prefer) 3 ,4 or 5 stitches. You will now begin your I-Cord Bind-Off of the flap until you reach the end of the flap. (Use Smaller Needles if you like)
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When you are dealing with garter stitch you have to be consistent in the way you pick up stitches on the edge of the piece. Remembering that there is a stitch to pick up for every two rows of garter stitch. You should not pick up one stitch per Row.
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You will then continue on the body of the wrap, going around ,being mindful of the corners and remembering to make two or three extra I-Cord Stitches so that it curves. You will need to I-Cord Across the Top as well. Remember how your I-Cord Looks as you Join to the Body of the Baby Wrap.
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When you are joining the flap or pouch you will have two edges to bring together with the I-Cord Bind-Off Finish. so when you are doing your I-Cord on the Body with these two edges, you will be picking up a stitch from each edge and the last I-Cord Stitch and you will be doing a K3 tog all around until the end. Then Bind Off as you will normally do being careful to match the I-Cord. Once your are done Binding off the flap you are actually making an I-Cord Border on the wrap that complements your bind-off. Finish off, cut yarn and Weave in the ends, there should only be Two ends to weave in.

Have Fun.

Any questions or comments feel free to contact me.

Crochet Skull Cap or Hat Free Pattern

Basic Crochet Skull Cap or Hat

The Hat in the picture is one I am working on is a Hufflepuff Order of the Craw Hat!

The pattern below will not give you the Hat on the picture, you can create any design by following your own intuition.

Hook sizes: I usually use size G or H 4.25mm 5.00 mm you may go smaller or larger your gauge will change. When doing Crochet Color Stranding I use an F hook for a tighter look!

Gauge is about 4 to 5 stitches per inch or 10 to 13 cm, for 22 inches or 56 cm head is about 92 to 110 sts.It depends on the hook and the material you are using.

Chain 5. Slip Stitch to beginning chain to Form a loop. (You may just chain3 or 4 and do the same or chain 2, and 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook instead of chaining, forming a loop and crocheting round 1, below).

(Note, join with slip stitch to first stitch at end of each round and chain 1)

You may choose just to keep on the round without joining, I don't, I also do a ch1, some people don't. It is a try it and see if you like thing lol!.

Round 1: Ch. 1. 6 sc in loop. Place a stitch marker at end of round.

Round 2: ch1, 2 sc. crochet in each stitch (12 sc.) You May Place a stitch marker atend of round. Slip stitch to beginning sc, ch1.

Round 3: *2 sc. in first stitch, sc. in next stitch* repeat 6 times (18sc).Slip stitch to beginning sc, ch1.

Round 4: *Sc in first 2 stitches, 2sc in next stitch* repeat from *(24sc). Slip stitch to beginning sc, ch1.

Round 5: *2 sc. in next stitch, sc in next 3 sc.* repeat (30 sc). Slip stitch to beginning sc, ch1.

Round 6: *Sc in next 4 stitches, 2sc in next sc, repeat from * (36).Slip stitch to beginning sc, ch1.

Round 7: *2 sc in first st, sc in next 5 stitches , repeat from * (42).Slip stitch to beginning sc, ch1.

Round 8: *Sc in next 6 stitches, 2 sc in next stitch, repeat from * (48).Slip stitch to beginning sc, ch1.

Continue in rounds, Place a stitch marker and keep moving it at end of each round.Slip stitch to beginning sc, ch1 at the end of each round.Keep increasing 6 to 9 stitches per round without putting the increases in the same place each round. I usually increase 9, because of my big head lol! When you get about 4/5 of the desired diameter, stop increasing, and simply sc in each stitch around until the desired size.

At this time the cap should start to shape up.Do not ch1 at last round ,just slip stitch to beginning chain. Weave the ends.

A lot of people asked me about my designs, they are born within the first 8 rounds of the hat.I pick equidistant points where I join the second yarn and go from there, every 2 stitches, every other stitch, every 3 and so on.The main thing is to be consistent with your pattern. Sometimes I carry the second yarn around, sometimes I don't. It may change as you go or you may have a graph.I never use graphs and that's probably how the designs become unique most of the times.

When you get to round 10 and beyond you can get creative with edges by doing sc on the outside or inside loops of your work, you can alternate sc with dblc or hdc for a round or two or you can be as creative as you want. ©CraftyAndy 2007© This pattern is for non-commercial use, if you use it leave a note on my blog. If there is a mistake let me know, please! Thank You for stopping by!

Harry Potter POA Crochet Scarf Free Pattern

The Prisoner of Azkaban Hogwarts scarves are very different from the old scarves where egalitarian stripes where the norm. I have created a pattern Inspired on the POA aka Prisoner of Azkaban scarves. All I request is that you place a comment, on this blog entry, to let me know you are going to use or intend to use the pattern. If you want my Knitted version, you can click here POA Scarf Knitted Version. I will have more pictures as I make more, but this is an original Gryffindor.

Materials:

7 Ounces of Main Color

2 Ounces or more of contrasting color

Hook Size I

Darning Needle and sciccors.

To learn how to make this Stitch cick here --> hdc

POA Crochet Scarf Version

Main Pattern

How to make a chain? * See note below

When Changing colors cut yarn and leave at least a 6 to 10 inch tail to weave.

This video is a Demostration of color change for this scarf. It is my first You Tube Video, lol!

With Main Color and Crochet Hook I (or size you prefer) Chain 30.

Beginning Row: hdc in second chain from hook and in each chain for a total of 29 hdc stitches. turn

Row 1 Chain 2 , count chain 2 as first hdc, hdc in each stitch across, for 29 stitches, turn
Row 2 - 21 Repeat Row 1
Row 22 Repeat Row 1 , but change colors in last hdc (** see note on how to change colors below)
Row 23-24 Repeat Row 1 with Contrasting Color, on Row 24 last hdc Change colors to Main color.
Row 25-27 Repeat Row 1 with Main color, On Row 27 Last hdc, Change Colors to Contrasting color.
Row 28-29 Repeat Row 1 with Contrasting Color, on Row 29 last hdc Change colors to Main color.
Keep repeating Rows 1-29 as much as you need to, Until it reaches about 56 inches, then finish with Row 1-22.



Finishing:

Weave the ends. Add fringe to your liking , short, long, every stitch , every other stitch, one or two strands. This is a personal touch. A picture should be posted of the scarf. I made two and forgot to take pictures.


* Start with a loop on the hook. Hook yarn and pull through. (One chain completed.)

** When ready to change to a different color, make your hdc in the old color on the last stitch, then, pull the new color through the three loops on the hook to complete that hdc or half double crochet. You can watch the video as well, if you are more of a visual person.


Crafty Andy© 2007 It is an original work and may be used for non-commercial purposes only. Important note: Harry Potter, Hogwarts, Gryffindor, Slytherin, Ravenclaw, and Hufflepuff are registered trademarks and copyright of J.K. Rowling, Scholastic, Warner Brother, Bloomsbury, et al. The rest of the content on this page is copyrighted to Crafty Andy. Thanks for stopping by!

Honorable Hufflepuff House Scarf Free Pattern

So here it is the Hufflepuff Scarf done. The pattern is following, you can use this pattern for all the houses of the Honorable Hogwart's School. For the POA Crochet Version go HERE!




Pattern Source: My own Pattern Crafty Andy 2007©


Needles: 2 Boye circular needles, 21 " cable, US sz. 6 . Darning Needle,(metal).

Hook: Size F for fringe and pulling yarn.
Materials:

Main Color: Lamb's Pride Worsted Weight Lemon Drop 4 Skeins.
Change Color: Lamb's Pride Worsted Weight Onyx 1 Skeins.

Locking Stitch Markers, those that are easy to handle.

Time: About 36hours
Techniques: Circular Knitting, Jogless Traveling Stripes Technique


Loved: Changing of Colors.
Hated: Nothing.




Scarf Pattern:


Cast on 74 stitches on circular needles with Main Color.


Divide your stitches taking care not to twist them on two circular needles



Main Pattern


Row 1-22 Knit on the round with main color. Break yarn leaving about 6 inches of tail.

Row 23 Place marker start knitting in Change color, when you come to then beginning of the round using the Jogless Traveling Stripes Technique slip the first stitch over without knitting . Break yarn leaving about 6 inches of tail.

Row 24 Knit on the round

Row 25 Place marker start knitting in Main color, when you come to then beginning of the round using the Jogless Traveling Stripes Technique slip the first stitch over without knitting .Break yarn leaving about 6 inches of tail.

Row 26-27 Knit on the round

Row 28 Place marker start knitting in Change color, when you come to then beginning of the round using the Jogless Traveling Stripes Technique slip the first stitch over without knitting .Break yarn leaving about 6 inches of tail.

Row 29 Knit on the round

Keep repeating round 1 -29 until you are about 3 to 4 inches of the desired length then finish the Scarf with round 1 - 22 in the Main Color. When starting the Main color in ROW 1 remember to Place marker start knitting in MAIN color, when you come to then beginning of the round using the Jogless Traveling Stripes Technique slip the first stitch over without knitting , continue with pattern as per instructions.

Bind off in your favorite way.

Finishing notes: Use which ever technique you find best to weave the ends, I try different ones and I liked them all. My favorite is to make a small soft knot on the yarn joining and weave the ends, there are many techniques on weaving, but since all the joining ends will be inside the tube, I did not see the reason to go to such extent. You can leave the ends loose inside.

You should block your scarf and let it dry according to manufacturer's instructions before putting the fringe on. Make the appropriate fringe, I found that three (3) 7inch threads fold in half makes a pretty fringe, every other stitch. Weave all tails to the inside. You can use your crochet hook for that.

Important note: Harry Potter, Hogwarts, Gryffindor, Slytherin, Ravenclaw, and Hufflepuff are registered trademarks and copyright of J.K. Rowling, Scholastic, Warner Brother, Bloomsbury, et al. All other content on this page is copyright to me Crafty Andy 2007 ©. This pattern may be used for non-commercial purposes only. The other requirement I have is that you post a comment on my blog. If you find any errors let me know. Thank you!

Bumble Bee Pot Holder Free Pattern©

Bumble Bee Hot Pad

©Crafty Andy

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There is a Free Pattern at Ravelry.com.

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This pattern was born out of the necessity of wanting a Bumble Bee Hotpad aka Pot Holder. I found nothing like this on the net so I decided to create one. Enjoy the pattern and if you have any comments or something is not right or misspelled let me know. This is done for the love of Crochet and the fun it brings to me life. Please sign by adding a comment to this blog posting.

Materials : 2 oz of Cotton Worsted Weight Yellow
2 oz of Cotton Worsted Weight Black
Some White, Red and brown yarn for face
G or H Crochet Hook

This whole pattern is made in sc crochet stitch, using two strands of yarn all the time. You may carry unused yarn along the work or just cut and switch to the new color as you go. The pattern is starting at the stinger Row 1 suggested coloring is à3 Rows black, 3 Rows yellow, 3 Rows black, 3 Rows yellow, 2 Rows black, 4 Rows yellow, 8 Rows black, 4 Rows yellow,4 Rows black, 3 Rows yellow, 7 Rows black. You may create your own bee color pattern.
Body
Row 1 With black chain 10, (leaving a long enough tail (around 12 inches) to work the stinger later on), sc on second chain from hook, ch 1 turn.
Row 2 2 sc in st just made.
Row 3 – 12 keep increasing one stitch at the beginning of each Row, , ch 1 turn.
Row 13-17 Now keep increasing one stitch at the beginning and end of each Row, remembering to ch 1 and turn, and to sc in 1 st sc; at the end of Row 17 you will have 22 stitches.
Row 18 -30 sc across, ch 1 turn,
Row 31- 44 decrease sc at the beginning of each Row end until you have 8 stitches left for the neck of the bee, continue until Row 44 with 8 sc. Finish off.


Head (make one Ha, ha, ha, you need humor as well) With 2 strands of Black
Ch 5 , slip st to join and make a ring,
Row1 ch3 , dc in same st, 2 dc in each st throughout, total of 8 dc. Slip Stitch to beginning ch3.
Row2 ch3, dc in first dc, 2 dc in each st throughout, total of 16 dc. Finish Off.
With white make the eyes, with the brown the nose and with red the mouth.
Remember you do not turn and you will choose 8 stitches to attach to the body.
Attach to the body.

Legs (make 6)
With two strands of Black chain 13 , sc in second chain from loop across, do not finish off, leaving a tail to sew unto Body of bee. It is an insect so try to make the legs as equidistant as possible, 3 legs on each side.

Pollen(optional)
Using a darning needle weave some of the yellow around lower pair of legs make a loose knot.

Antennae (make 2)

With Black chain 9 , sc in second chain from loop across, finish off, leaving a tail to sew unto Head of bee. Sew them equidistant from one another at top of head.

Wings ( make 2) With Black
Edging of wings is done in sc around the wing with yellow once, ending with slip stitch.
Attach wings in a diagonal way from the center upper body of the bee toward the edge.

Row 1 Chain 2, sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1 , turn (Remember this is the Top)
Row 2 – Row 10 sc in each sc, inc 1 st at last sc which is the end of the row, ch1 turn
(10 sc)
Row 11- Row 15 sc in each sc, ch1 turn
Row 16 – Row 22, sc in each sc, decrease at end of row , ch1 turn, finish off (bottom)

Flower (optional)
With yellow or other color * chain 4. 3dc on 4th chain from hook, slip stitch to beg ch and repeat from * three more times, four petals made fasten off. You can use some brown for the middle of the flower.

Handle or Hanging Ring

Slip stitch black yarn around lower part of head and chain 20 stitches, slip stitch to other end of head, ch1 and turn, 22 sc, fasten off. Weave in the ends.

Stinger
With the tail start close to the body .
Row 1 chain 6-10
Row2 sc in second chain from hook, sc in next ch, and in rest of chains. With yarn left weave in the ends.

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The Copyrights of this pattern are as follows:

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You can not claim this pattern as yours ©Crafty Andy. You can make as many as you want, but not in mass commercial use. You can not post it anywhere without my permission, you can always link to this posting. You can not sell this pattern. You can make as many as you want for charity as long as you mention where it came from. I ask that if you make copies of this pattern that you let me know and that this copyright is printed along with it. Let me know how you like it. Please sign that you agree by adding a comment to this blog posting.

Tote bag finished with Free Pattern ©!

I really enjoyed the Tote Bag exchange at Crochet Depot (No longer ALIVE), I know that I have learned something new about making totes and linners. I would have loved to make a felted tote, but I really did not have the time to do that, nor the yarn at this time. All in all it was a great experience that I will carry with me for future enterprises of the same. This pattern id available for PDF Download at Ravelry.

So i decided to make my Tote in Lion Brand Chenille with Teal and the variegated kind was the Armsterdam. A Variegated color blend of teal, purple and some other tones. Here you see the Teal Back. Chenille may refer to either a type of cored yarn or fabric made from it.

Chenille, the French word for caterpillar, is typically used to describe a type of yarn manufactured by piles (short lengths) wrapped around a tightly wound core. The yarn is commonly manufactured from cotton fabrics, but chenille can also describe acrylic, rayon and olefin fibers. The arrangement of the piles, extending at right angles from the yarn’s core gives the iridescent texture which the fabric is most commonly known for.

Though production of chenille-type yarns extends back to the 18th century, standards of industrial production were not introduced until the 1990s, marked by the formation of groups such as the Chenille International Manufacturers Association (CIMA - an organization formed with the mission to improve industrial manufacturing processes through education). In the 1930s chenille became widely desired as type of tufted fabric in carpets and bedspreads, though wasn’t popularized until commercialized production in the 1970s.

Most chenille fabrics should be dry cleaned, but if left to air-dry do not hang. Chenille is not easy to crochet or knit with and if you have to frog your project you will definitely learn to hate this material with a passion unless you have the patience of a Saint or a Taurean, one of those guys from the colonies of Battlestar Galactica!

A Taurean like from the Twelve Colonies that were founded by settlers from Kobol, the birthplace of the human species. In the original series, the twelve tribes of humans settled on twelve different planets in the fictional Cyranus binary solar system. All Colonial planets were depopulated by the Cylons during The Destruction of the Twelve Colonies. The names of the colonies are taken from the constellations of the Zodiac:

Well going back to the tote bag once more, talk about being focused ha ha ha, here is the front with the variegated yarn in the middle. I thought it would be very elegant this way. it is made in a very simple stitch.

Free Pattern for this Tote ( © Crafty Andy 2007)

Materials Lion Brand Chenille 2 variegated skeins, 3 solid color skeins

G Hook

Darning needle

Ruler or measuring tape

Stitch Marker (optional tool)

1/2 yard of complementary fabric

Button for closing

Gauge is unimportant as long as it is consistent.
Tote Bag will measure approx. about 13 Tall by 12 Wide when finished.

(Make 2) Front and back of Tote

Start by making a chain of 57 (or odd number increases by 2 i.e. 59, 61)chains, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in every sc, (56 sc, 58 or 60)

Row 1 Ch 1 turn, skip 1st sc, * 2 sc in next sc, skip next sc repeat from * until the end.(You need to count your sc, they need to be 56) or multiples of 2, i.e. 58, 60.

Row 2-and so on repeat Row 1 until desired lenght of 12 by 11 or your desired size

Border: Double Crochet all around and make sure you have 56 stitches on top and on bottom, as this are necessary for the sewing of the bottom part, be consistent. Make sure the stitches on the sides are the same amount so that when you sew the two parts they match. Finish off. Leave enough for sewing the front and back together if you like at this time. Be creative with the pattern use different kinds of colors. The border is what is going to make this bag the size that you want and like, remember that as long as you keep the number of stitches consistent you will be fine.


Bottom of Sack or Base

**At the end slip stitch to beginning ch 1, ch 1

Rnd 1 Ch 6, slip st to 1st ch from hook to form a ring. Ch 1, 8 sc inside the ring, ch1
Rnd 2 2 sc in each sc around, **(16 sc).
Rnd 3 (sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc) rep 8 times ** (24 sc).
Rnd 4 (sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc) rep 8 times **(32 sc).
Rnd 5 (sc in each of next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc) rep 8 times ** (40 sc).
Rnd 6 (sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc) rep 8 times ** (48 sc).
Rnd 7 (sc in each of next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc) rep 8 times ** (56 sc).
Rnd 8 (sc in each of next 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc) rep 8 times ** (64 sc).
Rnd 9 (sc in each of next 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc) rep 8 times ** (72 sc).
Rnd 10 (sc in each of next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc) rep 8 times ** (80 sc).
Rnd 11 (sc in each of next 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc) rep 8 times ** (88 sc).
Rnd 12 (sc in each of next 10 sc, 2 sc in next sc) rep 8 times ** (96 sc).
Rnd 13 (sc in each of next 11 sc, 2 sc in next sc) rep 8 times ** (104 sc).
Rnd 14 (sc in each of next 12 sc, 2 sc in next sc) rep 8 times ** (112 sc).
Rnd 15 sc in each sc around, **
Rnd 16 and beyond repeat Rnd 15 until circle is done and measures 9.5 to 10 inches in diameter. Fasten off do not ch 1, slip stitch to beginning ch1.


Handle or Shoulder Strap (front Make one or two see below ***)

*** If handle is done with one strand of yarn it will be advisable to do a back side as well either as a repeat of the front or using the back instructions given below***)
FRONT
Row1 Ch 7, sc in 2nd chain from hook and each chain(6 sc), turn.
Row 2 ch 1, sc in each sc, turn
Row 3 ch 1, sc in next xt, FPDC around post of stitch below

Repeat Rows 2 and 3nd until desired length, between 24- to 48 inches

*** Back of Handle or Shoulder Strap
(Optional if front is done with double strands)
Back

Row1 Ch 7, sc in 2nd chain from hook and each chain(6 sc), turn.
Row 2 ch 1, sc in each sc, turn.
repeat row 2 until desired length, , when done finish off leaving a tail to be weaved in later.

Fastening strap (optional)

Row1 Ch4, sc in 2nd chain from hook and each chain(3 sc), turn.
Row 2 ch 1, sc in each sc, turn.
make to desired length for closing your bag with the object that you chose for the closure. I used twelve inches for mine.

Lining the bag cab be found here at the Lining Tutorial from helloknitty (optional and appreciated) Thanks Naomi for the link.

Finishing the Tote:

1. Sew front to back with darning needle and yarn, I used double strands.


2. Liner may be sown now or later it depends on you, I sew the liner at the end, before the handle. If I was going to do it again, I would do it before the bottom is sewn, then turn the bag inside out and sew the bottom. The stitching on the liner will look better.


3. Alingning bottom should be easy as you have the same amount of stitches, sew bottom to upper part.


4. At this time if you sewed the lining inside out you can turn the bag inside out and there will be no seams.


5. At this time you can sew the two sides of the handle together.


6. Sew handle to the bag.


7. Attach the strap for the button


8. Attach button or clasp.


9. Weave the ends that need weaving, take advatage of the lining to hide stuff.


10. Attach fringe to bottom or to shoulder strap (optional), handcrafted by ... label.


11. enjoy your new bag

© Crafty Andy 2007 , these are the only copyright instructions I have. You are not to claim ownership of the pattern, do not use for mass commercial use. If you are going to use it in a crochet along let me know, you can always ask my permision to post it in a website along with the copyrights. Make as many as you want and if you sell them good for you may you prosper beyond your fondest dreams. Be kind and point to this blog and may you Live Long and Prosper.

Adornements (optional)

In the Picture below the border has not been added yet, but will eventually find it's way.

Shoulder strap of two colors here for your view!

I also decided to make the bottom in the round in a combination of both yarns. The bottom was made in single crochet all around.

I hope that you have enjoyed my tale and thanks to people like Naomi and Deneen that always inspire me to write patterns. Calypso always inspires me to sew! I will tell you that I write the patterns after I make the items. Is like when I did computer programming I would write the program after I conceived the idea in my mind. I have made every effort to make sure the numerology is good, if you find an error feel free to email me. I always have certain numbers that I follow and thus I never forget certain things. I like numbers that add to 11 or 22 and keeping that in mind you shall see that my patterns usually follow that, numerology it is fun!

"Life is not measured by the number of breaths
we take, but by the moments that take our
breath away. "

By George Carlin

Thanks for stopping by!